Libertine

The Art nouveau lobby, claret-coloured marble and stained-glass windows of Libertine invariably enchant visitors as they cross the threshold. This impression is further confirmed in the dining room, a genuine architectural gem. French textbook cuisine has no secrets for veteran chef Dominique Tondeurs, illustrated by a medium-rare loin of veal flanked by a velvety purée of sand carrots and girolle mushrooms sprinkled with pinenuts. Other examples of his high-flying repertory include masterfully braised veal cheeks served with caramelised onions, radicchio and cooking juices mixed with a gutsy concentrate of carrots. Familiar flavours mingled with exotic influences add scope and depth to his culinary palette, embodied by tiger prawns to which he adds a gutsy dash of kimchi juice. Chef Tondeurs is not one for half measures, to the delight of discerning diners.